India Notes

In 1986 I wrote the Ramamami Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute.  I sent pictures of my poses.  I sent references from my teachers.  I told of my yoga study history.  I asked to attend an intensive.  The secretary wrote back that the intensive attendance for Americans was being organized by a senior teacher here in the United States.  I should contact him.  He was not helpful.  Rather than being assertive and making it to India within the next three years I let the issue drop.  I decided that I had other things to do, raise my family, finish school, study with wonderful teachers available to me in my home country.  The following year an Iyengar Yoga Convention was held in Boston.  I attended and did not feel that I was missing the chance of a lifetime by not making it to India.

In 1998 Guruji celebrated his 80th birthday with many yoga students from around the world in attendance.  Months before the celebration Manouso Manos was encouraging students to attend.  At the time, my family life was far from settled.  I felt I had too many obligations to make it to India.  I explained Manouso the circumstances that I felt had kept me from making the trip over these past years.  He encouraged me to write to India that week.  Make plans to attend classes within the next 3-4 years.  He said my family and I had at least 3 years to figure out how we were going to manage this.  The plan was so simple.  I wrote to India.

It's 2001 and I have made plans to go to India.  I leave the end of September and will study at RIMYI for 2 months.  I have never traveled overseas.  I have never traveled where I needed a passport.  I am excited at the adventure to come.

 October 7, 2001

Have survived over a week in India and one week of class and practice at the Institute.  Am very glad I came.  It is challenging on so many levels.  One of the other students here said that "There is nothing subtle about India."  Sums it up.

The Institute is prop heaven.  Everything you could imagine being even remotely useful is there.  Even found wedges like my chiropractors used for my sacrum.  I have two women's classes a week, one pranayama, one advanced and two general classes.  The general classes are made up of foreign students who had to have been practicing Iyengar yoga for at least eight years and receive a recommending letter from their teacher as well as locals some of who have just recently moved up from a beginner's class.  It's quite a mix.  The Indians for the most part are the sweathogs (remember "Welcome Back Kotter") of the group.  They don't take things as seriously as we do.  Some are very pushy when it comes to props lifting them from an unguarded spot, pushing their way into the prop room.  It's really very funny.  Everything works out though as the assistants yell "Quickly, quickly" along with other instructions to make things go more smoothly.  Some class groups make a more cooperative effort than others.  The classes are very large.  I can't even say how many, but we are too many to even use mats.  When we lie down for Savasana we must have crossed legs because there is no room to stretch out.

The assistants in the classes range from poorly prepared, just shouting and adjusting by rote, to brilliant with wonderful suggestions and helps.  One, Mr. Shah, is perfect.  He teaches one of the men's classes and they have good reports for him also.

Most of my classes are with Geeta, I have only one with Prashant.  They have two very different teaching styles and I like both very much.  In Geeta's class it's not uncommon for Guruji to break in and give a pearl of wisdom.  This week was primarily standing poses.  We worked quite a bit on the hips.  To my students:  the hip work we have been doing, that's what we have been doing this week, only a whole lot more - we have not been working near hard enough.  Also on lift of the spine.  It's been simultaneously invigorating and exhausting.  My practice sessions on four days a week are at the same time as Geeta's and Guruji's practice.  Have been able to watch their practices and Guruji has helped some students during their practice so have gained that teaching as well.  This experience has the feel of an intensive even though there are really only six classes a week.  The practice sessions are invaluable and I wouldn't miss them. 

Next week I will begin observing in classes other than my own and taking notes.  To be able to do this you need, first, permission, next money.  There is a charge, which I paid and I can observe as many classes as I can get to.  I don't how many I will observe as my plate seems pretty full just trying to live and follow my own schedule.  I, at least, plan to observe the medical classes.  But, since I have only one of Prashant's classes a week, I want also to observe one or two of those to get some of his pearls.  He works so differently from Guruji and Geeta. 

Living in India is difficult.  Everything we do is hard and really can't say why.  It's just such a wild place.  It's difficult to walk anywhere as you dodge traffic, cows, goats, dogs and other people.  Also, the street signs are in Maharathi so addresses often mean nothing unless you just happen to know that the street you are on is the one you intended.  Yesterday a group of us went in search of a batik shop and got very lost ending instead at a beautiful field at the border of a very quiet neighborhood.  Someone said it was mustard.  A nice change from the chaos where we live. 

To get to the Institute I can walk through a park which is very nice, but it is open very few hours a day, I think 6-9 am and 3-6 pm. 

Often I eat lunch at a local lady's apartment, Chitra.  She cooks Ayurvedically.  She is multi-talented.  Before she had children she sang on the radio and still gives music classes.  She also gives cooking and philosophy classes.  She knows just about everything that is going on and really takes an interest in us.  Our yoga mommy.  She and I are planning on going to a lecture with Dr. Vasant Lad next month.  He is in town.  Maybe next week I can get over and have a consultation.  It costs less than $6 American .  What an opportunity, this really great Ayurvedic doctor who is associated with the place I am doing my correspondence work with right here when I am. 

Going to the German bakery, an old hippie hangout, today to have a good cup of coffee.  Mostly the coffee we get is Nescafe with lots of sugar and milk.  The German Bakery is by the Osho Commune so may get to peer in at the opulence there.  Raining today so will not really get to walk through the gardens that are around there, another day. 

Tonight we are to watch a video of a Q&A with Mr. Iyengar that was done in Washington, DC.  Don't know what year.  It is expected that we attend.  This is like school.  If you miss much you're out.  They have special programs regularly.  They have hot off the press an audio cassette of two pranayama classes with Prashant for only 30 rupees, that's less than $1 American.  It's good that some things are so cheap, because many things (including my Institute tuition) are really more expensive than expected.  Apparently Pune is one of the more expensive places in India to be.

Hope everyone is well.  Email whenever you like.  I love to get messages from home.  The internet cafe is less than 5 minutes from my hotel.  I usually stop in every day.

Return to Top

October 15

 Last week at the Institute was forward bends and twists.  Some classes I thought would never end, but at the end of the week, Friday to be exact, we got what I call a great reprieve.  The Institute will be closed the last Friday of the month, so Geetaji progressed us to the next week's syllabus, backbending.  It was the best class I have had since attending the Institute.  Geetaji was in rare form.  She seemed to feel good and have a good time with the class.  The class had a good time.  It was most excellent. This week there will be a physician giving a lecture on the physiological body.  It's our monthly meeting. We are expected to attend.  I, of course, have no problem with that. Saturday's women's class was the post-menstrual series.  Since I have been doing this series for quite some time I was in my element, but women who have not been doing this regularly reported that it was very challenging.  We all have our talents and likes.

 For an outing, a group of 9 arranged for a van and went 60 kilometers out of Pune to the Bhaja-Karla Caves.  It was great just going on a road trip and getting out of the city and the noise.  These caves have temples carved in them.  The first one we went to, the Bhaja Caves, is up the mountain from a small village.  There were many waterfalls around the mountain and at a few we could see the village women washing clothing and dishes and gathering water for their homes in big copper pots. It was a very colorful sight.  The village is not too small to have a train station.  Both coming and going we had to wait for trains to pass.  Basically, the rail is let down manually sometime before the trains are scheduled to pass by and we wait until they actually do, then the rail is brought back up.  The Bhaja Caves are Buddhist. The main temple has a huge stupa which is round and reaches near the ceiling, about two stories high.  There are pillars also carved from the cave rock along the sides of the temple with teak arches topping them.  This teak is said to be the original wood from the 2nd century BC.  We were there by ourselves for quite some time. It was very nice.  

There were caves that were used for individual monks for living and meditating.  One cave had 18 stupas with slight variations from each other carved and placed seemingly haphazardly.  Apparently, no one knows exactly what their purpose is, one person suggested practice for the big stupa in the main temple.  We could see forts up on the ridges high above, just like a Gunga Din movie.  The second cave, Karla Cave, was a bit more recent, larger and Hindu.  Though is did have some Buddhas carved in the walls.  There was much more carving in this temple.  It was about three times as large.

 There were elephants carved in the entry way that were said to originally have had ivory tusks.  Walking up to either temple was a very steep climb and was quite an effort.  At the Karla Caves, being more visited by the locals there were "gift shops" all along the way up.  There were gifts for the temple (flowers, coconuts), gifts from the temple (like amulets, pictures of gods), there were cold drinks of many varieties, there was music, there were other touristy type things.  There were also beggars, quite a few.

 Directly in front of the main cave was a small Hindu temple which was busy with people walking in for Puja.  The flowers and coconuts were for people going into this temple for blessings. It was busy when we went, but I could tell it gets much busier, as there were railings, like at Disneyland, to create a queue for entering the temple.  As each person came to the temple door they rang one of the many bells that hung there.   It was a wild experience, with lots of India flavor.

 Went to see Chitra's Guru.  Chitra is a lady who serves lunches for anyone interested. She makes Ayurvedic food and helps us to find sites and shops we are looking for.  She is the one that let me know that Dr. Lad was in town.  Her Guru, Shri Parwadeshwarey, was visiting Pune from his ashram south of here.  He was a very beautiful man.  It was a great honor to visit and hear him speak, though I did not understand what was said - he does not speak English.  He was receiving people in an apartment of one of his devotees.  When we arrived we met a man called, Sweet Baba.  His story is that he was just a farmer until 1981.  He fell asleep beneath the statue of the three headed god from which he received a blessing that night.  Ever since all he touches tastes sweet.  Water that passes through his hands tastes of sugar.  He first noticed this ability the week after this blessing when everything he touched was sweet.  All his food including chilies, his bicycle, everything he touched was sweet.  He went to the doctor who said he was normal with all tests, save this sweetness thing.  Now his food is normal, but everything he touches is sweet. It is said that when you drink Sweet Baba's sweet water, you will reach your goals.  One group particularly mentioned was alcoholics who, once they drank the sweet water, turned away from alcohol.

 After meeting Sweet Baba, who says his website is onemansugarfactory.com.sweetbaba  (I thought he was kidding, haven't checked it out yet), all of us who had come were fed a meal on banana leaves.  It was very good, cooked by the women in the group.  Afterwards we met and spoke, through Chitra, to the Guru.  It was an amazing day.

 The lesson this week from India is that nothing in India ever gets finished. We traveled over roads that were being repaired, etc.  There seemed to be no real planning involved, just begin somewhere and when you get tired of it quit.  The roads are not very good, so the short trip seemed quite lengthy. The roadwork is completed by men being used as machines.  There is a real difference in life here in India.  It creates either an incredible frustration or great patience.

Return to Top

 October 23,2001

Last Wednesday evening we were on Laxmi Road which has lots of shops.  As we left we noticed some additional shrines and lots of activity around them.  It was the beginning of a 9-day festival to the goddess Bhawani, who I am told holds the aspects of 3 different goddesses: Parvrati, Laxmi, and Arwaswati.  The festival is called Ghatasthapana.  Saturday night at about 1:30 AM a parade of sorts went past our hotel.  It consisted of a tractor pulling a small wagon which was piled high with large (rock concert size) speakers from which emanated rhythmic, visceral music. There were men and boys dancing around.  Behind the small wagon was a larger one, about the size we use for hayrides, which had a shrine and a gaggle of women.  The whole deal was lit up brightly and they would move about 25 feet, stop and dance, then move about 25 feet more.  It took them quite some time to pass the hotel.  It was really grand.  All week there will be women dancing and playing music down around Laxmi Road, and Friday night is the culmination of festivities.  I have class every evening, but Friday the institute will be closed so maybe I will witness some more Bhawani celebration.

Sunday we went to the Parvrati Temple which is on a very high hill from which we can see the entire city, which is so much bigger than I thought.  This is a large metropolis spreading out over miles.  Since this is festival time there was music in the temples and nicer chalk paintings (which have a name that escapes me right now) at the entry ways.  The walk up was not for the faint of heart. Even the steps themselves were steep, not horizontal.  But it was well worth it.

 Last week Geeta's sister's father-in-law passed away.  So, the evening that the family went to call we had Mr. Shah for class.  We were very pleased when Geeta made it back the next day for Friday night class which so far has been the best (for me) each week.  Geeta is such a great teacher and she really seems to enjoy teaching Friday night.  This in great juxtaposition to Saturday morning women's class where we get on her nerves right quick every single class.  Lots of yelling and chastising during women's classes.

 Pranayama begins later this week.  It seems like the beginning of this week is a potpourri, pretty much what they feel like.  Prashant's class yesterday (Monday) did seated twists and this morning did a whole lot of padangusthasana, on the floor, standing, on the floor again, etc.  Last night in Geeta's class we did backbends.  So, who knows what we are in for this evening with Prashant.

 The classes are very full.  The rumor is that 15 Americans cancelled this month.  We wonder where 15 additional bodies would be placed.  We are hedged in closely for every class.  The biggest project each class is the collection or removal of props.  The prop closet has one door which is almost too narrow for two people (one passing in and one out), let alone if one has a prop or two.  Putting away the props is usually a coordinated effort among us, but getting them is another story  altogether.  Geeta and Prashant are very good looking out that all students have a place and what they need, still some people seem to become pretty desperate when on expedition for props.  The women's class is the worst.  Last week in one class Geeta wouldn't even let the door to the studio be opened until everything was put away, that way everyone pretty much had to help.  Pretty funny.

Geeta's class always begins with adho mukha virasana, uttanasana with feet apart, adho mukha savanasana, and uttanasana with feet together and hands down.  While the main group does this she can make sure that anyone with ailments or menstruating is set up in the back of the room for their practice.  Prashant's class is always something different.  In Geeta's class we often receive lightning strikes of wisdom from Guruji who can be found practicing in the studio just about anytime we have class.  In Prashant's class Guruji does not offer additional information.  His insights follow right along with Geeta's instruction.  Prashant tends to be a little more esoteric and more involved with the energies of the body so his class has a totally different feel.  Every class has inversions.

To keep from getting ill I've been very careful: clean hands, clean food, and clean water.  So, I caught a cold anyway.  It has been raining quite a bit and many people are walking around with colds, including Guruji (maybe I have his auspicious germs).  I went to see Dr. Vasant Lad who is in Pune for a few months.  The visit cost 200 rupees which is just over $4.  Amazing.  He is a wonderful man.  I told him about taking the correspondence course with the Ayurvedic School in Albuquerque and asked to attend his lectures in November.  He said I should and I should also visit him in Albuquerque. It was a kind doctor visit – even better than our American doctor ideal, Marcus Welby.  He gave me some ayurvedic remedies that seemed to keep the cold from getting worse, but it really saps my energy walking about in the heat, doing asana in the heat, trying to find meals, practicing at the institute.  Practicing at the institute is so intense.

 You just don't realize how much Guruji's and Prashant's and Geetaji's presence, and others' practices, and the space, and the props can do.  Every time I enter it's an event.  How many of us have multiple "events" each day?

Return to Top

 November 4, 2001

Things never get dull here.  The rains have stopped so construction of all types is visible, including road  repair.  In a couple of days the prime minister will be visiting Pune so there is a crackdown on all corruption (one such activity being our fruit vendor who works the street in front of our hotel), the hotels had to register guests with the police, and there are a lot of police looking officials wandering about.  We'll see how exciting the actual event turns out to be.

 The festival that ended Friday proved to be quite an exciting time.  It celebrates three different Goddesses.  At the end a Goddess destroys a demon. This is acted out and dancing and fireworks and hilarity is all around as all is good with the world. That final day, when the demon is gone, is a day in which the Lord's light shines on us all.  It is a time to begin new projects, relationships, make investments, make purchases, ask for a loan.  So, it was an auspicious day for shopping.  We went shopping. 

Also went to the top of Hanuman Hill which is on Deccan College grounds.  This hill has a small Hanuman temple at the top and another great view of the city. This one was especially interesting to us as the Institute and our hotel are just up the road so we could identify our neighborhood. 

Another day we made it to a Ganesha Temple and museum at Peshwa Park.  This temple was quite busy and a wonderful place to rest.  Peshwa Park contains some very pretty grounds, but also a zoo and other park type amusements, like miniature rides for very small children and refreshments.  One of the common refreshments can be had from a stand:  peeled cucumbers.  When you purchase one, it is sliced into strips about 2/3 of the way down and dunked in what may be ground peanut.  (I haven't tried it, as I have been trying not to buy anything from street vendors.)  Across the street from the park is a Jain Temple. This temple is about 150 years old and has been newly restored in the past 30 years.  It is what you think of when you recall the India that decorated elephants with paint and jewels.  The temple is completely marble.  It is so beautiful.  The ceilings, walls, floors, everything is marble with beautiful ornament. Offerings are made on little trays.  Each person gets a tray on which they make a symbol of rice (I saw Om and swastikas).  On top of the rice symbol is placed your offering of sweets or money. 

Pranayama began at the Institute.  It is a very exacting practice and difficult.  We begin standing poses again the end of the week.  Studying with teachers with such clarity is a wonder.  I am filled with awe at what Geeta, Prashant and Guruji know and share.  The backbending week was loads of fun.  The Iyengars like backbends.  So do I.  I have been diligent in taking notes and hope to have some interesting sequences available to students in the next year.

Those of you who have not spent a lot of time with Iyengar teaching may be interested to know that even though there were other Iyengar Institutes around the world, the Institute in Pune was not finished until 1975.  It was begun with donations from students and friends.  Guruji's wife, Ramamami, for whom the institute is named and dedicated performed puja at the ground breaking in 1973 and died 3 days later.  There is a memorial statue to her in the front and picture of her in the lobby.  The Institute has certificates, honors, statues all around.  The main hall has pictures posted of Guruji all around the room.  They include the photos from Light on Yoga, but also later photos.  There is a library which has many books on yoga, philosophy, and medicine in many languages.  Classes are taught by Geeta and Prashant and there are other teachers as well.

Return to Top

 November 14, 2001

 Well, India continues to astound me.  For those of you expecting pictures don't get too excited.  I totally blew one roll of film which had some really great pictures.  Whether they would have looked as great printed as they did through the lens, we will never know.  Let's assume they were some of the best I have ever taken.  Am again trying to take some pictures.  Next week ought to reap some dillies, assuming that I and the camera both function well.  Things are gearing up for Deewali.  This is a huge festival which is kind of like Christmas, New Years and July 4th rolled all into one.  Actually, it is a new years.  It's the time of year when everything is cleaned and lights are hung everywhere.  It is the festival of lights.  Gifts are given, families visit each other and party, people travel.  Fireworks abound.  Not just in-the-air fireworks, but you can have firecrackers, really large ones, thrown about on the street.  Apparently there are many injuries each year with the firecracker
battalions.   

The Institute will be closed so many students are traveling.  I have opted to stay close in.  I had originally planned to see more of India during this time, but with the adjustment time I required and the illness I experienced I have decided it would be better for me to take a less strenuous vacation. 

I am settled.  The real turning point was the week of pranayama classes.  I am so sorry I waited so long to come study with the Iyengars (lesson to any of you on the fence).  They are beautiful teachers and there is so much to be gained here.  The classes are no larger than workshops back home so it feels relatively intimate.  Anyway, a week of superbly lead pranayama settled me in so many ways.  It was with this that I felt the ties that bind me loosen.  There is such freedom in releasing the useless connections to unworthy sentiment, the only worthy sentiment being compassion, love.  That will be my work this coming year. 

Since there is a week's holiday, this week was combined standing poses and backbends.  The week after Deewali will be twists and backbends.  We had two excellent sequences this week.  Look out students and teachers, you're going to like these! :)  One given by Geeta really softened the tension (and pain) in my sacrum with supine poses, but included the activity of standing poses and backbends.  Everything anyone could ask for.  The other was Prashant's, pure bliss.  In this sequence we worked towards standing poses as the theme, rather than their often relegated spot of warm-up.  The warm-ups were arm balances, backbends, and eka pada sirsasana!  Whenever he took time for explanation we had to repeat warm-ups to build up the fire, water, and air in our legs.  After three trikonasana, he asked, "What was the fabric of your first trikonasana, what was the fabric of your second, your third?"  As for me, mine went from burlap to silk.  It was awesome.  In the third, when asked to lift the back arm towards the ceiling I re-posed into the best Trikonasana I can recall for a long, long time.  My arm was neither heavy nor light, connected nor loose, back nor forward.  It rested in the air.  You are going to love these.  I have also been picking up lots of things to do with props we don't (yet) have and ropes. 

My weekend activity was going to a musical performance.  This contributed greatly to my sense of balance, ease and centeredness (any of those corny words we use to describe our practice).  The first act was a tabla player and sitar.  During the performance I wondered how much Jimi Hendrix was influenced by this instrument.  It was wonderful.  The audience enjoyed the performance on so many levels.  They were tapping their feet and hands, gesturing to the performers as though they were friends, oohing and aahing, smiling.  They enjoyed viscerally, cerebrally, like members of a jazz audience.  The people I came with enjoyed the sitar player the most.  I liked the second act, the female vocalist.  She was tremendous.  She played to the audience, gesturing and singing from the belly.  Though I didn't have a clue what she was singing about, it was like opera where you can enjoy without stories because it is such great music.  I was blissed when I left.  The concert was 3 hours in length.  Seemed like 30 minutes. 

Return to Top 

November 20, 2001

Deewali is the festival of lights, it is celebration of light over darkness.  It is similar to Christmas, New Year's and July 4th all rolled into one.  I have celebrated a Deewali in Pune and that should be that.  The lights around the city were beautiful, like we will doing next month.  There were Christmas style strings of lights hanging off the roofs of taller buildings creating a light waterfall.  There were strings of lights hung at eye level that were colored bulbs with ornate chandelier configurations made of styrofoam.  There were light covers of all shapes and colors on strings of lights.  There is family, gift giving, shopping (it's an auspicious time to shop - good karma), travel, sweets, lights and fireworks.  The fireworks was the most unusual for me.  They began before Deewali and on THE Deewali day they were going off all day, a tremendous amount in the evening.  The fireworks sounded like it does when we watch 4th of July displays, lots of very loud booms in very quick time, except it went on for hours and was all around you.  We were out in a rickshaw for the early evening (helping a shop celebrate Deewali and investing in a little retail therapy for myself).  There were firecrackers going off in the road, beneath the rick,
everywhere.  It was nice to get to safer surroundings where we were indoors and the fireworks were out.  By Saturday, I was totally exhausted of the fireworks and prayed they would end.  Also, by Saturday I didn't want to see another sweet.  Everyone gave us sweets, one of the favorite is something like raw cookie dough, only much richer, made with sugar, flour and ghee. 

I really missed being able to go the Institute, but was very glad for the rest.  By Sunday I felt rested and more than ready for class to begin.  The first class was taught by Pandu who is the secretary for the Institute.  Geetaji was not in the hall, so he was relaxed, so were the assistants, so were we.  Though I surely missed Geetaji, I was grateful for the only calm yoga class I have had since coming here.
Prashantiji's are blissful, not necessarily what I would call calm, however.  Geetaji's are hectic, demanding, lots of pressure.  Pandu's class was a seated forward bend and twist sequence that even I enjoyed (some of you may know it's far from my favorite thing to do).  Last night's class was Prashantiji's "Post Deewali" special for us.  It was forward bends and twists.  Same as the night before, seated forward bends and twists, but with abdominal/bandha focus that really twisted all the
food right out of you. 

It's hard to believe that I have only a week and a half left.  I have been gone about 8 weeks and am now beginning to miss my husband so I guess it's about time to come home.  I wish I could have Pune and my family life simultaneously.

Return to Top

November 29, 2001

 Last week a group of us went to a nursery on the outskirts of town that has a garden restaurant.  It was very nice.  There was a bonfire (much appreciated - it's getting nippy in the evenings and mornings), beautiful surroundings and wonderful company from the owners.  They are Sikhs, have lived quite some time in the west, so are different to talk with than the less westernized version of Indian.  The owner is writing a book and compiling a website which she hopes will inform more people about Sikhism.  She feels that westerners have not really gotten the full picture.

For those of you who don't know (I didn't), the Sikhs have had equality for women for 400 years.  I also now know that their names Singh and Kar mean Lion and Princess.  Every Sikh man is a lion, every Sikh woman a princess.  We were there nearly 4 hours.  The way out resulted in a great rickshaw driver-passenger dispute, which we lost.  The way back was a 6-passenger rickshaw stuffed with 9 westerners.  The driver and his buddy were chewing beetlenuts (spelling?).  A good time was had by all.  I laughed so much my stomach hurt. 

This week is pranayama week at the Institute.  It is the best week of the month.  It would be great to return often just for this week.  In some classes there are preliminary postures, especially in the AM classes just to get yourself open to the experience.

 In some classes it is total pranayama with just enough restorative and savasana to keep us relaxed.  Because it is a practice that requires relaxation the manner in the hall is always calm, no yelling, very little frustration displayed.  It's certainly a nice note to leave the Institute.

Getting ready to come home.  Had to buy a bigger bag to bring home the goodies I bought here.  Things are so much cheaper here.  They are nearer the source of creation so there's no shipping charges to tack on, also I think the middleman (sales, etc) does not get as much for their work as in the West.

Am already planning on the next trip.  Not doing any traveling this time is a disappointment, but I have accomplished my goal which is the yoga study.  I am very happy with this introduction to India and look forward to further study and some travel.  I will begin propaganda to husband, family and friends to see who wants to come with or meet me here next time  :-)